It's called Invisible Mode. To get to it:
Locate the My Profile link at the upper left of any forums page.
Click it and it'll take you to a page titled "User Control Panel". In the left (Your Control Panel) column, scroll down to the Settings & Options section and click on the Edit Options link.
Invisible Mode is the first box on the "Edit Options" page:
Quote:
Use Invisible Mode
Invisible mode allows you to browse the forums without appearing in the 'Currently Active Users' lists.
[ ] Use Invisible Mode
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Check or uncheck the box as you prefer, scroll down to the bottom of the page, and click the "Save Changes" button.