The metaphor is a good one, especially because you wrote it to describe how you feel.
It is very descriptive and conveys a sense of power, fear, and danger.

What are the techniques that surfers need to know to get out of these 3 dangers?
I guess you mentioned them briefly..
1. Managing resurfacing
2.reflexes to detach yourself from “the leash”
3.managing the seriality of the waves

What do these 3 dangers and the 3 skills you need to manage these dangers represent in your actual life?

If I sound like your therapist please ignore me 😅
I am forever curious about other people.